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Hydro booster
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:11 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:23 pm
Posts: 13
I know all the do it your selfers like to go to the junk yards to find hydra boost units.
The purpose of Tallon Hydraulics is to save you money and keep you safe.
The problem with junk yard units is that you dont know what the unit has gone through
was it in a crash ,fire,does it leek ,ect how was it removed from car or truck even if you know all of these things you don't know what level of assist the unit is . Hydra boost is built for diffrent level of boost depending on the weight size of vehicle and stoping power the calipers pistons and wheel cylinders.
The other problem is that if you must change the pedal rod out of a staked unit your chances of damaging the unit are great. This is only recommended for the professional builder. At tallon we only let our rebuilder remove and install pedal rods that why we have a time delay on ordering staked units
The Tallon assist unit is built to give you a great preformance level form a 6 piston Corvette caliper to a single piston caliper. I have heard to many horror stories of home built units that when road tested and the brakes were applyed that it but your nose on the windsheild clearly over boosted or wrong master cylinder bore size.


Last edited by Zenmaster on Wed Apr 22, 2009 7:01 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Hyrra booster
PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:51 pm
Posts: 4
Hey, I resemble those statements. Which is why I am seeking a venue to discuss brake systems function and design. I am guilty of trying to cobble things together for fun and to save money. I enjoy the fabricating and the thought/ design processes. I have 14" front rotors and new design 99 Corvette Grand Sport calipers. I have 12" rear disc set-up off of a 03 ls1 Camaro. I have the master off of a 08 Z06,and a wilwood adj. proportioning valve. I want to use a hydro boost and am coming to realize that the better brake system would indeed start with a booster that works the best for my chosen components. I wish I would have educated myself a bit before I got my booster . And am glad I found this forum.


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Re: Hyrra booster
PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 1:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:51 pm
Posts: 4
I noticed on Tallon that there was only one booster for disc/disc. When you order the booster do you specify the type of set-up you have. How do they adjust the booster for levels of assist? If I choose to increase/decrease the assist level is that something I can do? Is the benefit of a staked rods angular movement important? What angle is considered too much for the non-staked type rod


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Re: Hyrra booster
PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 6:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:23 pm
Posts: 13
Hydra boost comes in disc/disc or disc/ drum THREE diffrent types per style staked rod installed
staked rod not installed and push lock , Push lock is the best type for the do it your self people.
Boost is preset by the factory or rebuilder.


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Re: Hyrra booster
PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 10:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:51 pm
Posts: 4
To determine the best booster for me what parameters or specs would I need to finalize to give to Tallon. Your comment about the brakes being too touchy is what my friends warn me about. They think I'm crazy to use a hydro boost. I think they're sissies. I'm hoping for sports car braking abilities but do not want a sensitive pedal. Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.


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Re: Hyrra booster
PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 1:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:23 pm
Posts: 13
Things you need to know obout your booster. If running front disc brakes and drum rear brakes order that booster(ie disc/drum booster) if running front disc brakes and disc rear brakes order that booster(ie disc/disc booster). Its that simple. Choose the pedal rod style you want and your done. If it were me I would choose the push lock style so if it was nessary I could order another pedal rod and change it out. The boost level on tallon hydra boosters is set to give proformance through a wide range of applications with master cylinder bore of 1.125 to 1.250. Junk yard boosters are not safe unless you know what it came from and the boost level. So if you take a F350 disc/disc booster and put it on a 57 chevy with drum brakes and a 1.125 bore master cylinder there will be problems.
You see the boost level on the F350 is very high set for heavy load stops on large six piston calipers.


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Re: Hyrra booster
PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:42 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:23 pm
Posts: 13
I wanted to make this statement. We installed a disc/disc unit on a corvette that had large rotors and large calipers this vette came OEM with manual master cylinder . The level of performance increased to that of a super car giving it much better control and ease of stopping. The same type unit was also installed on a Camaro Z28 with 4 wheel disc brakes factory units. It increased performance to a much higher level. The vette had much better rotors and calipers so its preformance level was better. But both cars recived a greater level of preformance.

Rember the booster only increases the power to the master cylinder. The level of preformance can be increased by other brake componits as well calipers rotors ect.


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Re: Hydro booster
PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 11:46 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:10 am
Posts: 3
I think the Hydroboost brakes may be one of the best performance upgrades I have made to my Jeep. I recently upgraded my transfer case and the torque was just too much with a single diaphram vacuum booster to handle.

Although I have had a few diagnostic issues getting the brakes dialed in they certainly stop!


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Re: Hydro booster
PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 4:46 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:10 am
Posts: 3
Its been over a year now that I installed my booster. Its was a long journey getting this all worked out but the guys at Tallon know their stuff.

The jounrey:

Transfer case prodced too much torque so I needed a brake upgrade
Running Chevy single piston calipers front and rear
Used a Corvette MC (brand new one)
Used a Tallon MC
Used SS high pressure lines (wish I had gone the blue house route)
Used the threaded rod with the special Jeep connector
Used the bling Jeep firewall bracket

When I first installed the unit I got some serious steering pump whine and the brakes kept locking up in the rear. It was the weirdest thing. I would cut the push rod to the correct length (eventually made my own out of some steel rod) and adjust the pedal height and when driving down the road the rear brakes would start to drag.

Here was the solution:

If you read the instructions on the web about the correct rod length then you will be WRONG. When the pressure of the pump hits the booster the rod pushes out a little and causes the drag. Most websites tell you to make the rod length so that the when the MC and booster are mated they barely touch when you put them together. This caused me SO many problems.

The second issue was the PSC steering pump. The enginners at Tallon swore than the TC style pump, coupled with a under drive pulley, made too much pressure for the booster.

I dont know whether too much pressure was the issue but the pump was bad and PSC replaced at no cost. If there ever was a company that stood behind their product PSC is definitely one of them!

Here is the bottom line. The boys at Tallon know their stuff and sell top notch products.

Sory it took me so long to get around to writing this. I started anew job and have been extremely busy.


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